It was a new city and a new look from Matthew Williamson, who came from New York for LFW’s 25th anniversary. Leaving his boho girl stateside, Williamson offered instead a streamlined Brit chick.

“She’s not gone for good,” he said of his iconic hippy chick. “But there are times when you have to offer something fresh and new.” Williamson used this as a chance to explore his tailoring skills with a collection of slick shifts, shawl-collared jackets and high-waisted cigarette pants in high-shine gazars and smooth duchesse.

The strong shoulder-line was still important, but squared instead of peaked and often accentuated with contrast inserts, as with the opening leather jacket in putty grey spliced with copper. Shards of mirror echoed the linear aesthetic, as did the neatly pleated paper-bag waists.

As the opening passage with its clean lines and cool colour palette progressed, Williamson added his signature techno-tribal prints to the mix. “I started off with over-scaled prints of orchid flowers,” said Williamson. “But the more I worked them, the more they began to resemble coral.” Rolling with the scuba theme, there came aquatic blues and greens punctuated with a jolt of exotic colour flashing by like a fleeting fish, and reef-like crystal sleeves.

Source: WGSN

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